Crossing the border into Portugal (and stressing about Portuguese toll roads) we continued south toward the city of Braga, considered the religious capital of Portugal.
The first cathedral in the country was built here in 1089 and it has the highest concentration of religious buidlings in the country, but we were skipping the city proper and instead heading to the very impressive Bom Jesus do Monte.
This beautiful church is famed for its Baroque stairway which climbs the steep hillside and depicts the ascent to heaven. Starting at the top Fiona and I descended the 577 steps to the bottom and then climbed back – probably as close to the ascent to Heaven as I will get I suspect.
A wedding was taking place when we got back to the church, I can only guess at what it might cost to get married in this prime location but they certainly had a wonderful day for it.
After a quick lunch (in fact it may have just been icecream?) we were back on the road as we had a preappointed time to say goodbye to our trusty Citroen in Porto.
The drop off was a little nerve wracking but after one wrong turn we found the spot and the car return guy was happy to check the car off with no issues. Not a scratch on it after nearly three months and 5,000 kms.
We had last visited Porto (Portugal’s second largest city) in 2012 and stayed in Pedro’s apartment in the Vila Nova de Gaia district. When researching our accommodation options this time I was delighted to see that Pedro was still hosting guests and in fact now has six apartments, he, like the whole country, is doing much better than those post GFC times in 2012.
Nothing is too much trouble for Pedro and he had organised for his colleague to collect us from the car drop off location and take us to the apartment along with our luggage and the considerable extras we had purchased along the way… icebox, picnic set etc. etc.
The best part about staying in Vila Nova de Gaia is that you can look out of your window, across the river Douro and feast your eyes on beautiful Porto.
It was obvious as we drove into Porto that the city was flourishing, lots of new buildings going up, cranes everywhere and SO many more tourists than our last visit. The city had a really vibrant feel and although it had been nice seeing an uncrowded city back in 2012, I am really happy that the country is now back on its feet and it seems that the rest of the world has discovered the delights of Porto.
After a quick unpack we wasted no time in heading down to the riverfront which was heaving with tourists and locals alike.
We found a menu that we liked the look of and started with sangrias just in time to watch the spectacular sunset.
Over the course of the next four days we re visited some of our favourite spots from 2012 (which were all new to Fiona) as well as exploring some new experiences.
Livraria Lello, the bookstore with the most beautiful staircase and said to be J K Rowling’s inspiration for Hogwarts. So popular now you have to buy a timed ticket for entry!
Fiona and I did anyway after sampling the excellent ice cream shop across the road.😜
We were first time visitors to the Palácio da Bolsa, (the Stock Exchange Palace) and the headquarters of Porto’s Commercial Association.
This stunning neo Classical building features a large central courtyard called Pátio das Nações (Courtyard of the Nations), enclosed by a glass structure which lets in a beautiful natural light into the whole Palace.
You are only able to visit as part of a guided tour but if you are in Porto I highly recommend it!
Undoubtedly though the Palace’s highlight is the Arab Room. This 300-metre room is decorated in Moorish style, inspired by the Alhambra and is where the official receptions are held. Absolutely amazing.
Last Christmas I promised Russell I would take him to a Michelin starred restaurant in Europe and after much research I decided that Le Monument in Porto was it.
We scrubbed up ok I think, donning our best threads carried all the way for just this occasion 😍
The menu promised to ‘take you on a journey around Portugal’ and it was a fabulous experience, ironically starting with Australian kangaroo paw flowers on the table.
We wandered the streets, had high tea in the historic Cafe Majestic and visited the São Bento railway station admiring the azulejos, the beautiful Portuguese tiles which depict historical life scenes.
One cannot visit Porto without also visiting a Port ‘Cave’ similar to visiting a winery cellar door here in Australia. Port wine grapes were (and still are) grown and the port produced in the Douro Valley and historically it would have been transported downstream in barrels on traditional rabelo boats that are still evident on the river today, albeit for tourist trips.
Therefore all of the actual Caves are dotted along the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river, we were in fact surrounded by them.
We had heard good things about Taylor’s, one of the original British growers, and so we set off one afternoon to experience their tour which of course ends with the complimentary port tasting. Videos, interpretative boards and cellar displays told the port wine story very effectively. We enjoyed the tasting so much in the sunny courtyard that we ordered another round 😉
On our slightly tipsy walk home we came across the Pink Palace that I had also read about, describing itself as a Rosé Museum… I looked at Fiona and said surely we have to go there? Turns out she didn’t need much persuasion, Russell opted out for a quiet afternoon (a wise choice I think) and in we went.
I’m not sure that I would call it a museum, although there were some rosé facts and figures, but basically it was about Instaworthy murals and four standard rosé pours – an hilarious combination as it turned out 🤣🤣🤣 (this emoji is ‘rolling on the floor laughing’ very appropriate!)
Already fuelled by two ports we were quickly reduced to two cackling women of a certain age and luckily almost had the place to ourselves until a group of three British guys caught up with us. They only encouraged us by adopting the photographer role to capture our silliness. We had an absolute ball, literally.
I think its fair to say the rosé may have enhanced the experience but it is one that we will laugh about for many years to come.
All good things must come to an end though and after five wonderful nights our time in Porto and Fiona’s time in Europe was almost over.
Fiona informed us that she had never been on a funicular so we boarded at the bridge and rode down to the riverfront and then made our way to the roof top bar at Cruz for one last sunset together.
Tomorrow Fiona would fly to Madrid on the way back to Australia and Russell and I would catch an afternoon train to Pinhão in the Douro Valley to visit our friends.