Our lady doctors driver was at our disposal for the drive down to Galle on Sunday morning and after about an hour to get onto the new highway (ironically called the Southern Expressway) we finally got some speed up for the 117 km trip south.

This highway is Sri Lanka's first ever and was opened last year, it is a toll road and cost us 500 rupees ( about $3.80) to traverse. Apparently when it was first opened there were lots of accidents because Sri Lanan drivers have never driven faster than 60km/hr prior to this given the state of the roads and had trouble taking the corners at 100km. This is the speed limit, but the “police don't mind if you do 120” and we did 140 most of the way. Not much traffic on the road at all but there is the same disregard for lanes so when we did come up behind slower traffic there was much tooting of horns to herald our arrival and make sure he didn't veer right. I found it much easier to look out the side window.

I didn't mention earlier that Russell had relapsed somewhat today and after fortunately gaining early entry to our room at about 1130, that was to be the last I heard of him til the next morning.

The room was lovely, we thought possibly the same one we had been in in 2006 and I spent the day reading out on the balcony overlooking the pool, very restful.

This is a small boutique hotel (only 12 rooms) so when you want a drink or cup of tea you just catch the 'boy's' eye and it is done 😉

A heavy evening shower reminded me that we are on the tail end of monsoon weather and the arrival of the mosquitos sent me indoors for an early night – Russell was still slumbering peacefully downstairs on the single bed.

Monday dawned sunny at first and after a careful breakfast (on Russell's part) we headed off to explore the fort again. There seemed to be much more activity than last time we were here and particularly lots more commercial activity.

We had noticed the Galle Oval looking green and well cared for when we had driven in yesterday in contrast to 2006 (two years post Tsunami) when it had still been covered in debris and the stands were partially destroyed. We were told later that day that Shane Warne had been largely instrumental in orchestrating this.

First stop was a gem store (every second shop is a gem store) where we perused pink and green sapphires amongst other things and eventually we tore ourselves away for a last visit to Barefoot. A couple of kilos later it was time to head back and deposit the shopping and relax with our books again.

We had booked a driver for later in the afternoon to visit the famous stilt fisherman, unique to Sri Lanka and indeed this particular part of Sri Lanka.

Apparently the best time to photograph is early morning or late afternoon/evening but when we arrived the poles were empty and the swell quite high.

However, as soon as we stepped from the vehicle four men sprang from a small hut and came to greet us. Expecting to photograph them, we were surprised when they asked me if I would to catch a fish and of course I said yes.

Before I knew what was happening I had a turban wrapped around my head (clearly for authenticity), was up on the shoulders of one (poor) man and we were wading out to a pole!

Safely deposited and precariously balanced, I was handed a fishing pole which one of my 'assistants' baited with bread and we waited for action. It wasn't long before I raised a small reef fish in triumph and Russell captured the moment for posterity.

The poor fish was returned for the next unsuspecting tourist!

I was then safely returned to shore amid much laughter. It was the funniest thing to happen all trip, the only thing funnier was when I saw the photographic evidence!!

Our driver had told us to bargain re price but we paid them what they asked (about $10 each) because it was well worth the laugh.

Ignoring my wet shorts (from a particularly big wave) we climbed back in the van for our next stop, the turtle hatchery.

We had visited one of these on our previous trip but it was still very interesting and and I didn't know that Sri Lanka is home to five out of seven of the world's sea turtle species. They buy eggs from locals that have been dug up at night (illegally) and then rebury them to hatch safely in the hatchery where they are kept until four days old and then released to the sea. This increases their chance of survival by 30%. The ones that they don't buy are sold on the black market for eating so they ending up buying them at a highly inflated price to save them from this fate.

Next stop was Unawatuna beach, consistently rated one of the top beaches in the world but less so since the Tsunami claimed a good portion of it. Still, it is a very popular spot and lined with restaurants and bars. We spent 'happy hour' watching the storm clouds develop on the horizon and listening to Russian tourists shriek when a wave hit them. There were dogs everywhere, digging a nest in the sand and appearing to watch the waves roll in.

After meeting our driver again, we headed back to the hotel to begin packing up for our departure the next morning and the scary task of weighing our bags! Fortunately, our first flight is with Emirates who have a healthy baggage allowance so we should be fine.

Once again, Sri Lanka has shown us its many contrasting faces but is clearly recovering from the civil war that was raging last time we were here.

We look forward to future developments on our next trip.

Posted with Blogsy

Saturday, Russell was feeling a little better and went off to deliver his final lecture whilst I prepared for a day of self indulgence.

I had remembered a great shop that we had visited in 2006 called Barefoot and the hotel driver knew exactly where to go. They stock an eclectic range of brightly coloured napery, bedspreads, silverware, books, sarongs etc. etc. Some time later I emerged with a couple of bags full having done my bit for the local economy and raced off via tuk tuk to my spa appointment.

I then spent the next 210 minutes being scrubbed, polished, massaged and bathed to as close to perfection as she could manage, given the raw material. It was just heavenly…..

Finished at 4 and raced back to the hotel to wash the almond, corn, honey, cucumber, milk powder, orange and whatever else was used, from my hair before the next appointment at 7th Avenue, the salon.

When I arrived the salon was chaotic with several English women being 'draped' in their Sarees for a friends wedding.

To my surprise, my hair booking had somehow become hair and makeup so once again I just sat back and relaxed.

By 7pm we were ready, Russell decked out in his new suit and looking particularly suave and myself resplendent in designer Saree and matching jewellery. With some trepidation I made it downstairs without tripping over and off we went to the dinner.

The hotel was awash with beautifully coloured Sarees as there were two weddings as well as our dinner happening and the women just looked stunning!

The dinner itself was OK, once again dictated by longstanding customs and thank you speeches and we started eating at about 9.30pm!

After a suitable time had elapsed we started saying our goodbyes. We were walking through the area where the buffet was situated when a large rat scurried between Sarees and raced off to parts unknown. I expected to see Manuel and Basil in hot pursuit any minute but that was not to be… all part of the charm of Sri Lanka.

Posted with Blogsy

Following the Saree 'fit on' I was crossing the road out the front of the hotel when a smartly dressed young man struck up a conversation with me and said he had seen me at our hotel where he worked.

He seemed pleasant enough, telling me how wonderful the Australian people had been post tsunami and asked if I had been to the Gangarayama Temple which amongst other things, ran an orphanage for tsunami orphans that Australian agencies had been largely involved with. I said no and before I knew it he ad flagged down a tuk tuk and we were lurching down side streets to the temple which he assured me was 'not far away madam!'

I received a blessing bracelet from an old man plus one for my 'sick husband' ( I did donate an Australian $5 note, but wasn't asked) and then we were back to pick up our shoes and take off the very glamorous sheet that I'd had to wear to cover my legs!

At this stage my 'friend' informed me that if we went to the Gem Bureau and showed my ticket to the temple, any sales resulted in a percentage going to the orphanage. I protested mildly that I didn't need any gems but conceded that I would spend 'three minutes madam' listening to the spiel. The Bureau is the only place in Sri Lanka where the gems are actually certified by this Government agency to be what they say they are!

(Sri Lanka is famous for its gem deposits both precious and semi-precious and it is only diamonds, emeralds and opals that are NOT found on this small island.)

Having convinced my friend and the salesperson that I must get back to my sick husband I finally made my escape…. But not before my 'friend' asked me whether I wanted to 'party party' with him if my husband was so sick!!

What can I say, I've still got it!! Lol.

Back at the hotel Russell was indeed still feeling poorly and so I dined on the balcony, solo. No party party for me.

Posted with Blogsy

We happened to mention to one of our hosts that Russell would like to buy a new suit and before we knew it we were picked up by Dr.Dilmindi and transported through the chaos that is Colombo peak hour, to Hameedia, “tailors for 60 years.”

Wow, four floors of men's wear and shoes and sales people flocking around like we were visiting royalty.

After the first suit was nigh on perfect and only required pants to be taken up (“which would be done by tomorrow Madam”), Russell decided to indulge in another one plus the three shirts and a tie. All for the price of his last suit in Adelaide and the salesman very kindly threw in two “T20 in Sri Lanka” mugs!

Back at the hotel we glammed up for the official Inauguration Ceremony.

This is a very big deal and not to be taken lightly, Russell as guest of honour was at the front of the official procession and took part in the special lighting of the candles (not sure of the correct term) before taking his place on stage.

The Secretary to the Minister of Health was the 'special guest' as opposed to the 'guest of honour' and his wife and I were both presented with a basket of flowers.

(This is afterwards in the jacuzzi… Lol)

Essentially this was the conference opening session and culturally it was quite different to home. Multiple photographers were running around up on stage and to every vantage point continuously. Phones were going off in the audience with alarming regularity and there were so many flowers on stage it could have been a funeral, Russell almost needed to stand on a stool to be seen.

The most hilarious thing though was the constant texting between the 'special guest' (seated next to Russell on stage) and his wife, seated next to me in the front row.

At one point I looked at her screen and it said…” You have to look interested otherwise it will not be good!”

I did my best to look interested just in case but could really only understand Russell's talk.

Russell also became an honorary fellow of the Sri Lanka College of Venereologists as well and presented with a silver scroll and parchment.

The soirée continued with cocktails and traditional food outside which was very pleasant.

Pleasant that is, until about 4 am, when several of the guests were struck down with the old V and D! As I write, Russell is languishing abed (after crawling out to deliver his lecture this morning) and one of the English visiting speakers is in hospital being re-hydrated!

Meanwhile, I've had a pedicure and am about to go out for my Saree “fit on.”

Bye for now 🙂

Posted with Blogsy

The good news came through via text on Sunday before we left that we had been fortunate enough to get our requested upgrade for Adelaide to Singapore so the princess relaxed.

As it turned out though, we hadn't factored in Isabella in 1F. The demon child who flatly refused to sleep or stop wailing the whole way. By the time we reached Singapore (airport shopping Mecca) I had such a headache it was totally wasted on me.

The next leg with Singapore (eco) was surprisingly good and in a little under 4 hours we touched down in Colombo at around midnight (or 5am SA time.)

I hope those accompanying Isabella to London had a relaxing trip.

I must have been tired, was a little off my game at the ATM when I selected a withdrawal of 200 (Sri Lankan rupees) pocketed the notes and then Russell told me I had just withdrawn $AUD 1.54! Oops.

Our driver was waiting patiently and drove us to our hotel about 45 mins away – unlike 2006 we didn't have to stop at three military checkpoints to have a machine gun armed man check the car – so things are improving. Not noticeably the traffic though. Tuk tuks, trucks, cars and buses alternately tooted, swerved and performed an intricate set of manoeuvres that only they know the rules of but we arrived in one piece.

Our room (an Oceanic suite) is lovely and dominated by a large jacuzzi bath. For those that know Russell's views on the ability of a spa bath to single handedly wage microbiological warfare, it was quite ironic.

After a quick shower we collapsed into bed and slept well despite the thunderstorm raging outside.

Wednesday morning we were greeted by one of the Sri Lankan doctors who whisked us away to the Saree shop and then left us to wander at will.

I'm not so keen on the latest Saree fashion, they have moved away from the pure silk of my last one to chiffon type creations but as Russell said, it wouldn't do to be in 2006 fashion in 2012 so I made my selection and we moved on to other shopping ventures via the ubiquitous tuk tuk. Our driver waited outside wherever we went and then delivered us back to the hotel for about $AUD 8.

Some quick facts about Sri Lanka.

The average Sri Lankan wage is $US 850 per annum.

Population is about 19 million on an island the size of Tasmania and they currently only receive about 500,000 visitors per year. That is picking up though as the slow recovery continues from the tsunami and the civil war. Apparently Russians constitute one of the largest groups of people now visiting.

Just before dinner, another Sri Lankan lady doctor arrived to whisk me off to the Saree dressmaker for measuring up – I will apparently have a fitting tonight (Thursday) and the Saree will be ready for Saturday. I was told he charges “top dollar” but is the best. I asked how much that would be, the answer was probably about 3000 rupees – about $AUD 22.

So, room service dinner on our balcony and an early night.

Today, Thursday, Russell starts singing for our supper so I am taking time to write this, read my book and maybe visit the spa this afternoon…..

Posted with Blogsy