When you spend as many hours researching your trip as I do, you sometimes randomly find a link to somewhere that you had never heard of before, you see a google image and it goes on the wish list…
The proprietor of our auberge asked us over breakfast what we were planning on doing today and I mentioned this spot – “Aaahhh yes she said, beautiful views… ” and proceeded to give me directions including a stop off or two en route.
The small village she had suggested we first visit was called Montpeyroux – a medieval town dominated by a large tower or donjon. This village has an interesting history including being a major wine growing centre with subsequent thriving businesses in the 19th century. With the arrival of phylloxera into France in the last decade, the vines were wiped out and the depopulation following the First World War left the village with fewer than 200 residents.
The town was virtually abandoned before being 're-discovered' and subsequently renovated as recently as the 1960s. It has become home to a group of artisans including sculptors, painters, jewellers and more and is obviously a thriving tourist spot having made the “most beautiful villages in France” (Plus Beaux Villages de France) list in 1998.
The Donjon of Montpeyroux is 30 metres high with a diameter of 14.25 metre at its base and 13.2 metres at the top.
The top platform which has stunning 360 degree views is reached by a combination of stairs and ladders and is not for the faint hearted – the bar across the road had a defibrillator in the doorway – one of two we would see today.
Standing at the top it was easy to see how it fulfilled its purpose of keeping not only Montpeyroux but surrounding villages well protected from invaders.
This is the 11th century baptistery of St.John built on Roman ruins.
By virtue of the fact that we found the car park closest to this, this was the one we climbed – no small feat in 30C – once again the defibrillator inside the church door reassured us!
It is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy. The iron statue of the Virgin Mary which overlooks the town was made from 213 Russian cannons taken during the Siege of Sevastopol in the Crimean War.
We were however, completely past climbing a third landmark in the hot weather and had to content ourselves with a viewing from the Petit Touristic Train!
Whilst on the train we saw a saddlery and after a very frustrating session for both Jeanette and ourselves we managed to drive there only to find it was not worth the trip!
Instead we began the 130 kms trip back toward our lodging, planning a detour to the hill top village of Usson, perhaps for dinner if there was a table at the local Auberge.
Usson commands a lofty view and we were lucky to secure the last table on the terrace of the Auberge de Margot, named after Queen Margaret of France, who was imprisoned in the castle here by her brother and then her husband, for 18 years! Fascinating history, she was the daughter of my aforementioned favourite Catherine de Medici.
History aside, dinner was delightful and one of the advantages of a French July means it's almost never dark to drive from dinner!
Usson in the background
Coming up, south to Merindol, Provence.
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