Leaving Ingham CMCA park and planning on spending a few nights in the CMCA’s Innisfail Park, both of which are unpowered, we decided to stop between the two for a powered site to get the washing done! (Yes friends, we still have housework in paradise 😁)
A relatively short drive from Ingham we arrived at Cardwell where the Bruce Highway again touches the coast. Getting stuck into the washing we still had most of the afternoon free and had read about the local natural ‘spa pools.’ This spot was a favourite with locals and relatively unknown by the wider world until someone posted a photo on Instagram in 2016 and the rest is history. Only about a ten minute drive from Cardwell, what sets it apart from other freshwater swimming spots is the colour of the water.
Much of the water that flows to the creek comes from underground, where it picks up minerals from the sedimentary rocks, resulting in high levels of dissolved magnesium and calcium in the waters. Depending on the time of day and available sunlight, the colour can vary from a bright, baby blue to a more milky-blue colour.
Luckily it wasn’t too busy when we arrived and by the time I went in for a dip it was almost deserted. I couldn’t convince Russell though but trusted him to document evidence of me getting more than my feet wet.
We completed our brief stay in Cardwell by having a lovely al fresco dinner at the local pub (curry night) and marvelling at the resilience of Cardwell which suffered major damage in 2011 when it was hit by the category five Cyclone Yasi.
Local banana and cane growers had just picked themselves up after Cyclone Larry nearly five years earlier and were not expecting another cyclone of this magnitude in their lifetimes. Photos of the devastation were almost unbelievable and we spent a moment imagining what it would be like to be caught literally in the eye of the storm.
The next morning another short drive took us through Tully, the wettest town in Australia, and on to Innisfail where the CMCA park is well situated next to the Johnstone River. This park was only officially opened a couple of days before our arrival but has been functional for a couple of months I believe. Once again another great collaboration between the CMCA and local government – this land was apparently a dump historically and therefore cannot be built upon so CMCA leases it and puts it to great use, subsequently pouring money back into the local economy.
We parked up in a nice spot and wasted no time disconnecting the Jimny and heading off to see nearby Etty Bay, about twenty minutes away. Evidence of the banana industry was plentiful and the colourful bags protecting the crop provided a good photo op.
The plastic bags are put in place to protect the fruit against insect and other animal damage and to prevent rubbing. It also creates a microclimate which prevents chill damage, increases yield and fruit quality whilst reducing the flower-to-harvest interval and increasing bunch weight.
This area is part of the Cassowary Coast and we had heard that Etty Bay has a couple of resident birds which we were hoping we may be lucky enough to see. Cassowaries are on the endangered list at present and one of the reasons is the rapid clearing of rainforest creating isolating patches which force the cassowaries to cross roads with unfortunate results. There were many cassowary road signs reminding the motorist to be on the lookout.
We couldn’t believe our luck as we arrived into the tiny Etty Bay car park and almost the first thing we saw was a cassowary strolling along the beach to the delight of many onlookers.
Another item crossed off the list!
Etty Bay itself consists of a simply a small and very popular caravan park and the Surf Life Saving Club and we had to settle for just an ice-cream for lunch after we checked out the beautiful shoreline.
Over dinner that evening I did a bit of reading about Innisfail and discovered that it has a special architectural significance in Australia. In 1918 a devastating cyclone hit the region necessitating a major re build of the CBD and the new buildings were adapted to the tropical climate incorporating peaked roofs and wide awnings creating a unique tropical Art Deco style different from the rest of the world. More recent damage by Cyclones Larry and Yasi provided opportunities during the clean up for restoration of the town’s ageing buildings revealing a fascinating cultural story. We did a walking tour throughout the CBD to take in the Art Deco sights and also stumbled across Bob Katter’s electoral office but didn’t have the opportunity to have a yarn 😉
Another fascinating fact we uncovered on our walk – the trees planted in the Memorial Park were planted during a visit by the Allan Kippax XI cricket team in 1931. The team, which included Donald Bradman, played a game in Innisfail and each member planted a tree to commemorate those who in died in service in WWI.
Across the road from the park is the local cemetery which also served up a nice photo op on sunset and at exactly 6.25 each evening we were treated to the sight of thousands of bats flying overhead from somewhere unknown to a destination also unknown!
We left Innisfail on Thursday, excited to re locate only 30 minutes away at Mena Creek in order to visit Paronella Park, recommended by everyone who knew we were coming to this part of Australia.
Paronella Park, cited as “one man’s dream” has to be seen to be believed, a unique collection of buildings and gardens on the banks of Mena Creek, created by Spanish immigrant José Paronella.
José Paronella arrived in Australia from Catalonia in Spain, in 1913. For the next 11 years he worked, cutting sugar cane initially, then purchasing, improving, and reselling cane farms. In 1924 he returned to Spain and married Margarita in 1925 and they returned to Australia for their honeymoon.
José first saw this 13 acres of virgin scrub along Mena Creek in 1914. He eventually purchased it in 1929 for £120 and started to build his pleasure gardens and reception centre for the enjoyment of the public.
First they built a house to live in, then they started on the Castle itself.
Apart from the house, which is made of stone, all of the structures were constructed of poured, reinforced concrete, the reinforcing being old railway track. The concrete was covered with a plaster made from clay and cement, which they put on by hand, leaving behind the prints of their fingers as a reminder of the work they had done.
” ……… in 1935, the Park was officially opened to the public. The Theatre showed movies every Saturday night. In addition, with canvas chairs removed, the Hall was a favourite venue for dances and parties.
I’ve taken the above straight from their website, but if you’re interested, please read more here about the amazing story of this property. The current owners purchased what was basically a ruin and have restored it to become one of Queensland’s most popular tourist attractions.
Our tickets to Paronella also included a night tour where the buildings and gardens are part of a light show but I’m a little ashamed to say that we saw a sign for a trivia night at the local pub and we went there instead 🤣
I’m happy to say though that the day ended on a high note when we came third and took home a nice prize, largely consisting of alcohol!
Tomorrow it’s on to Palm Cove and the Great Barrier Reef beckons.