“Over the sea to Skye …”

… is a famous line from the Skye Boat Song which will be familiar to all followers of the Outlander TV series (lets face it, we’re really just watching Jamie aren’t we?)

The Skye Boat Song version (though not the original), was composed in the 1870s and tells the story of how Bonnie Prince Charlie, disguised as a serving maid, escaped from mainland Scotland after the disastrous Battle of Culloden with the aid of Flora Mac Donald.

After the delay with our ferry schedule it was nearly six pm by the time we drove into the car park of Hannah’s Cottage, our home for the next four nights just out of Portree.

I had booked a popular boat trip the next day so we were up early for the drive to Elgol in the south west which I had allowed ample time for, the second section being back to single lane roads again.

 

 

The Bella Jane took us and three other brave walkers on a 45 minute boat trip to the landing ‘rock’ where we disembarked for our roughly two hour self guided exploration of beautiful Loch Coruisk.

Loch Coruisk is only accessible by boat such as we were doing, or a very long hike which includes traversing the notorious ‘Bad Step’ – not for the faint hearted.

There was quite a swell but the views en route were breathtaking. Perfect timing saw us visiting the resident harbour seal population just as the rubber ducks belonging to a small adventure cruise ship anchored off shore, were leaving.

 

 

Whilst the weather was a bit grim for photography, Loch Coruisk was spectacular. Dark and brooding with heavy skies overhead, for the first hour or so the five of us had it to ourselves.

 

With strict instructions to be back at the boarding area at 1.15 pm we were there five minutes early and slightly concerned at 1.25 when the opposition tour boat arrived to pick up their passengers. They loaded their passengers and then asked if anyone was there for the Bella Jane – 3 of us raised our hands and were then told our boat had broken down! Luckily they had room for us and even  made us a lovely cup of tea for the trip back 😂

Slightly wet and dishevelled but really happy we’d gone, we left Elgol and found a nice spot for our picnic lunch before continuing on to the Fairy Pools.

The Fairy Pools are situated on the slopes of the Black Cuillin Mountain range and consist of a series of crystal clear blue (depending on the sky above) pools that cascade down the hill. Despite being a calm and tranquil scene now (if you discount the many visitors) it was actually the scene of a bloody battle between Clan MacDonald and Clan MacLeod in 1601 as part of the Wars of the One-eyed Woman which makes for gruesome reading… 

 

 

It was early evening by the time we got back to Hannah’s Cottage and gladly put our feet up 😉

 

The Quiraing is a dramatic landform containing several distinctive features and we were going to try the hike to the Needle.

The walk hugs the steep hillside which was a little challenging for Russell who is not hugely fond of heights, and after being confronted with a tricky creek crossing in a narrow crevice he wisely decided to read his book whilst I continued on. In actual fact that was the worst part of the whole walk but I understood his concerns.

For me, who had been researching our trip for months and reading about these destinations it was exhilarating to finally be there and the weather even turned on a bit of blue sky.

 

 

Some time (and many chapters) later I arrived back at the car park, ‘tomato faced’ but wholly satisfied and we set off down the winding road to continue on the loop.

 

The next day the Old Man of Storr beckoned.

 

Skye’s most popular hike and with good reason, it is described as moderate and whilst it is not challenging technique wise, it is pretty much straight up, in many parts the trail consists of roughly hewn stone steps which we weren’t sure how Russell’s knee would handle.  As we got out of the car and looked up to the ‘ants’ climbing toward the top I wasn’t feeling that positive …

 

However, I’m happy to report, after several refreshment stops, WE MADE IT!

And wasn’t it worth the climb …

I couldn’t find the elevation of the spot we made it to (the ‘photographer’s viewpoint’) but my phone said we climbed 55 stories 😱

 

 

Coming down was also challenging but we both arrived back to the car unscathed just as the mist started rolling in from the sea so our timing was perfect. Well pleased with our efforts, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner in Portree, a fairly nondescript seafood and chips for each of us and a bottle of wine – the equivalent of $AUD 200.