Arriving into Marseille via the TGV at around 6.30pm, we were greeted by warm sunshine and reached our accommodation via the metro fairly easily.
It turned out to be a great location, overlooking a square which housed dozens of bars, restaurants and assorted eateries spilling their tables and umbrellas into the square in a riot of colour and noise. It seemed that everyone in Marseille ate here!
The next few days we spent mostly at the Parc Chanot attending the ISHEID conference, the purpose of our trip (!) which incidentally was not without it’s own dramas…..
It was obvious that the city of Marseille was undergoing some sort of major facelift at many sites and we were to learn that in 2013 Marseille will be the European Capital of Culture.
The European Capital of Culture is a city designated by the European Union for a period of one calendar year during which it organizes a series of cultural events. It provides opportunities for fostering urban regeneration (very evident in Marseilles) it can facilitate an image change and raises the International profile of the chosen city. This all sounds wonderful but visitors in the lead up years can be confronted by mass disruption and construction.
Nevertheless, we thought that Marseille had shaken off its somewhat seedy reputation and was a vibrant and happening city even if its sidewalks sometimes resembled obstacle courses.
The savon (soap) that Marseille is famous for was everywhere, as was the culinary favorite Bouillbaisse – the fish soup, ranging from 12-58 euros.
We did manage to squeeze in some sightseeing and highlights included the iconic Notre Dame (yes, they have their own), a landmark structure clearly visible throughout Marseille and known as the Protectress of the City.
The mosaic interior was absolutely sensational and well worth the bumpy ride on the Petit Train to reach the 162 meter high limestone outcrop. The basilica in the Neo -Byzantine style, was erected in 1864.
Earlier in the day we took the 20 minute boat ride out to Chateau d’If, the retreating skyline of Marseille juxtaposing the old and new with ease.
The island of If houses the Chateau which was firstly a fortress and then a prison, until its closure at the end of the 19th century. It was made famous as the (fictional) setting for the novel by Alexandre Dumas, The Count of Monte Cristo in 1844. It literally provided a breath of fresh air and of course the obligatory photo opportunities.
Mention must be made of our last two dinners in Marseille where our very entertaining waiter, Jimmy, made the duck with scallops even more memorable!
Friday afternoon however, it was time to ditch the ID tags and tidy up in readiness for collecting our car the next day and beginning the holiday proper.